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Thread: Wiring - Charging

  1. #41
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty IamJEEP's Avatar
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    Sal, are you using a "multi meter"? You should'nt be blowing fuses if you are, just change the range up one notch.

    Unless you started the Jeep again with it hooked up..LOL.
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJeepZJ View Post
    Then I drove her hard for about 45 mins.

  2. #42
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IamJEEP View Post
    Sal, are you using a "multi meter"? You should'nt be blowing fuses if you are, just change the range up one notch.

    Unless you started the Jeep again with it hooked up..LOL.
    Yes I am but the max amperage is fused at 20amps. So when I hold it on anything pushing more then 20amps the fuse blows can't do anything about that and you can't put a bigger fuse in or you will melt something else in the meter. I didn't start it LOL but I had to have the key turned to the on position to get power to the plug. I'll drop another fuse in the bad boy and recheck the readings.

  3. #43
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty IamJEEP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sal-XK View Post
    Yes I am but the max amperage is fused at 20amps. So when I hold it on anything pushing more then 20amps the fuse blows can't do anything about that and you can't put a bigger fuse in or you will melt something else in the meter. I didn't start it LOL but I had to have the key turned to the on position to get power to the plug. I'll drop another fuse in the bad boy and recheck the readings.
    Interesting...............I have a Fluke 77 and have kept it hooked up to the alternator output for long durations and have never blown the fuse. According to the manu specs, it's only rated at 10amps DC. 1000v DC.

    Am I missing something here?
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    RAGE ROOF RACK MEMBER #2
    Quote Originally Posted by AJeepZJ View Post
    Then I drove her hard for about 45 mins.

  4. #44
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Yes first I'm jealous I haven't owned a fluke in some years now Second as long as you are not measuring AMPS you will be fine. You can measure 250v 50amp feed all day but as soon as you move your lead to the amp terminal and turn the switch to amps it will pop.

  5. #45
    Senior Member Getting Dirty cico7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IamJEEP View Post
    I guess the question here is............How long will it take to charge the battery with a 14g wire VS a 12/10g wire? Also, Cico mentioned he did not want to wait to charge so, a deep cycle is out of the question here ($0.02).
    ..... but I don't want to take all day to charge the battery
    All day. If I am out and about and then need to charge the trailer battery, I dont want to have it plugged in with the engine running several hours. What I will do is run a 10gauge wire to the back with an isolator so it doesnt back charge or drain the main.

    I have a back up plan, I bought a 1000w generator.

  6. #46
    Senior Member Getting Dirty cico7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sal-XK View Post
    ....but as soon as you move your lead to the amp terminal and turn the switch to amps it will pop.
    Then don't do that. Didn't they teach you that in Meter Manual school?

  7. #47
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cico7 View Post
    Then don't do that. Didn't they teach you that in Meter Manual school?
    Funny, but then how do I measure the amps then? I guess I could use one of those fancy formulas to calculate the amps but its easier to change fuses when I pop them. LOL Sweet generator by the way. I don't think you need the 10 gauge wire because thats probably whats already in there. at 30+amps measured its plenty to charge a battery. I would run 10 gauge from the bumper back to the trailer and have an isolator on that.

  8. #48
    Senior Member Getting Dirty hoaxci5's Avatar
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    Get a solar setup, if you get the right size panel you should be able to run for days if not weeks without ever having to worry about recharging..

  9. #49
    Senior Member Getting Dirty superacerc's Avatar
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    If you know the voltage(easy) and check the ohms(easy) you know the amps. voltage/ohms = amps. Ohms will probably be below 1.
    Watts are amps x volts fyi. Easy to check how many amps a light will pull. If you buy a 50 watt light and you know with the car running you have 13.4 volts - 50/13.4 = 3.74amps. If the car was off and you only had 12 volts it would be more amperage 50/12 = 4.1amps.
    With my 4, 55 watt (wussy) offroad lights on my rack the amperage is (not including resistance from the length of 10gauge wire) (55w/13.4v)x4 = 16.41 with the engine on and (55w/12v)x4 = 18.33 with the engine off.
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  10. #50
    Senior Member Getting Dirty cico7's Avatar
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    What i ended up doing is getting a heavy plug with lighter type attachmentl. Ran 10ga wire
    to the front, followed the existing wiring harness. I add this plug. This is a low draw system,
    not starting or trying to fast charge the battery.

    Right now, this is my wifes old battery. I will replace with 2 storage type batteries.


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