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  1. #1
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knappster View Post
    One thought on the pin location... Make sure you have the "L" shape brackets right side up (there is a top and a bottom).
    The brackets are currently a non-factor... the bumper won't physically go on far enough to even try getting the bolts in the brackets.

    The pins either need to be cut off, or I need to enlarge the holes they go into. Considering I don't think they help at all since the bumper sits on the rear "shelf" of the unibody, i'm thinking grinding them off is the best option.

    Though I like how Mark put it; gonna head to bed soon and start with a fresh mind tomorrow

  2. #2
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    OK ROUND 2!

    Woke up early so I could do some cutting/grinding before the wife left for work.

    It's nice out too so I pulled the jeep out and hosed off the rear... was tired of getting dirt/sand in my eyes!



    This was the main culprit of my misery last night. The bumper needed to go higher but this dowel was interfering, already at the top of the hole is was designed to go into. I have a feeling those holes on the back of the frames are more manufacturing purposes only and not held to very tight tolerances like the rest of the body/frame; might explain why this fit on Jon's and not mine.



    Also shaved down some of the edges to add clearance where it was a tight fit and digging into the body. If it goes on i'll probably grind away more in the spring when i pull it off for paint.





    ..... round 2 starts soon. I think the only other thing i'll want to do is increase the hole size in the frame rails; maybe to 5/8" or so.


  3. #3
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Are there not holes in the wings of the bumper where the bumper mounts on the sides of the XK?? My stock bumper has two holes on each side where it slides in and locks to the Jeep
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

  4. #4
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    No you take those off. I'm going to write up a step-by-step for Jon once I get this thing on properly.

    I need to figure out what to do with the rear TPMS module. Hoping i can get my hands in there to reinstall the screws with the bumper in place. I'm also hoping it's not sitting where the front edge of the bumper wants to be!



    Granted i do have my TPMS turned off so I can remove it if i want.... but i'd like the ability to turn it back one if they ever make rubber stems that work.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Why would you take those off? Are those helping support the sides of the bumper?

    I'm glad my XK doesn't have all that TPMS crap!
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

  6. #6
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    They're not needed for the steel bumper due to all the framing. Also the stock bumper can be "flexed" outwards to take it off, this wouldn't work on the steel bumper because you cant pull it outwards.


  7. #7
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Well i lost round two. .. and it might be TKO

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