will go forward in 4 lo, but will not go in 4 hi

[Adondo]

The front end is IFS. (Independent Front Suspension) That means half shafts. The front axle housing is ''short'' with the axle ends angling up and down as needed. You have a set of CV (Constant Velocity) joints in each side. They're basically ball bearings in a set of disks with machined slots. the balls ride in the slots, so the joint can angle itself. They're better than Universal joints, which vibrate bad above a certain angle.

So... you have the differential, the half shafts ending at a CV joint. The outer shaft connects to that and goes to a second CV at the wheel hub. That keeps the wheels vertical when bouncing up and down.

Either a CV joint failed, or you tore out a spline at the wheel hub. You said there was noise at the wheel itself, but it could be telegraphed from something farther in. It needs to come apart to see what failed before any parts ordering gets done.

On edit:

This is one good reason to leave the ESP system on. The computer will keep the torque levels down since it drives by wire. Turning it all off allows high RPM and too much spin, and that's when things break.

[pjmjr508]

Thanks for the info guys.
The brake as far as I can see is on the passenger side CV joint. the shaft on the diff side is spinning but the shaft on the wheel side of the joint is not spinning so that joint is blown. I was just worried that I did something to the TC because it would not go anywhere while in 4 hi but it would go forward in 4 lo. Adondo you provided that answer, and that explains why the shop was not able to drive it with front drive shaft removed. They were trying to isolate out the front diff on an issue I was having before I went wheeling.

I also had it in 4 lo when I broke it. Being in 4 lo it automatically turns off the ESP, I do agree about leaving it on while doing wheeling. I make sure to leave on during driving in snow.

So I will have to replace the half shaft, so answer me this; that the heck is the difference between these ones other then price and different makers?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/co...xlK0Fzc2VtYmx5

I did see that the more expensive is a reman & holds a 3 year & 36k warranty, while the cheapest was new. It also looks that the reman was also the ones that they provide half shafts to Napa or at least warranty them.

Your take guys?

I do thank all imput in this & now do plan on carrying a spare for each side when wheelin now.

[Matt]

When you buy a re-manufactured half-shaft you get charged a "core" charge that is reimbursed when you turn in the old axle. The price difference is usually a wash.

If you're ordering online just buy new ones so you dont have to worry about turning the core back in.

[Sal-XK]

First the warranty is better so that's one obvious reason why it's a better half shaft. Sounds like they used better parts in rebuilding it and chased the splines so installing should be easy. If they do actually chase the splines and can get them to you without damage it should be a good product. Let us know what you order and if you get what they say they do. Inspect the splines real good if the shaft slips in and all the holes line up that would be cool for just $77

[Matt]

I believe Rockauto.com has the half shafts for around $50.... It's almost worthwhile to buy them for trail side spares, and just hold on to them until your current ones need to be replaced (they ALL wear eventually)

[pjmjr508]

while I was searching online to price check I came across this for the same axles
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52400_0043.htm

what in the world are they thinking?

these are the same as far as I can tell and with a better warranty and after returning the core it will come out to 66.00. it is also listed with LSD.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50038+2038051

[pjmjr508]

from the research I just did the NAPA Max Drive was re branded from A1 Cardone the same as the reman we have been looking at. So cheaper & local to my place to pick up & easy to return the core. Had the stitches took out today so maybe by this weekend I will be able to walk enough to R&R that half shaft & then go from there.

Question I have is this;
Normally when you blow a CV joint, does the issue stop there or good chance of other broke items in the TC or any where else in the drive train?

[Matt]

Normally the damage stops there... hence the reason you dont want stronger joints lol