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Thread: will go forward in 4 lo, but will not go in 4 hi

  1. #21
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    When you buy a re-manufactured half-shaft you get charged a "core" charge that is reimbursed when you turn in the old axle. The price difference is usually a wash.

    If you're ordering online just buy new ones so you dont have to worry about turning the core back in.

  2. #22
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    First the warranty is better so that's one obvious reason why it's a better half shaft. Sounds like they used better parts in rebuilding it and chased the splines so installing should be easy. If they do actually chase the splines and can get them to you without damage it should be a good product. Let us know what you order and if you get what they say they do. Inspect the splines real good if the shaft slips in and all the holes line up that would be cool for just $77

  3. #23
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    I believe Rockauto.com has the half shafts for around $50.... It's almost worthwhile to buy them for trail side spares, and just hold on to them until your current ones need to be replaced (they ALL wear eventually)

  4. #24
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty pjmjr508's Avatar
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    while I was searching online to price check I came across this for the same axles
    http://www.quadratec.com/products/52400_0043.htm

    what in the world are they thinking?

    these are the same as far as I can tell and with a better warranty and after returning the core it will come out to 66.00. it is also listed with LSD.
    https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50038+2038051
    Last edited by pjmjr508; 06-15-2011 at 06:01 PM. Reason: adding link
    PJMJR508
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  5. #25
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty pjmjr508's Avatar
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    from the research I just did the NAPA Max Drive was re branded from A1 Cardone the same as the reman we have been looking at. So cheaper & local to my place to pick up & easy to return the core. Had the stitches took out today so maybe by this weekend I will be able to walk enough to R&R that half shaft & then go from there.

    Question I have is this;
    Normally when you blow a CV joint, does the issue stop there or good chance of other broke items in the TC or any where else in the drive train?
    PJMJR508
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  6. #26
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Normally the damage stops there... hence the reason you dont want stronger joints lol

  7. #27
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty pjmjr508's Avatar
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    K I can follow that logic. Its shouldn't be that hard to swap them out if needed on the trail.
    PJMJR508
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  8. #28
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Well, you have to dislodge the upper balljoint, the tie rod and take off the lower fork bolt (which people often complain about when installing leveilng kits on these vehicles). So its somewhat of a PITA to do trail side... but doable.

    I liked my Silverado... take off the axle nut, unbolt the flange at the diff and then slide it right out. 20 minutes tops.

  9. #29
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty pjmjr508's Avatar
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    this the trail I broke on
    http://youtu.be/yHV-zlK_wcg (view from the outside) Language Warning!

    the video is of me going down, it wasn't until I went back up the trail until I broke
    Last edited by Knappster; 06-17-2011 at 09:54 AM. Reason: addded info
    PJMJR508
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  10. #30
    Senior Member Getting Dirty Adondo's Avatar
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    Holy mackerel! That's a serious V notch!!
    2006, 4.7L, QTII, Toyo Wild Country M/T 265/70R17 tires, Ultrasport 175 wheels, Rocky Road 2.25'' lift kit, HID off-road lighting, Surco 50x60 roof rack, Foxwing awning, Superchips performance programming.

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