DOH! my bad LOL!!!!! (my other older vehicle refers to them as TPS - Tire Pressure Sensor)
DOH! my bad LOL!!!!! (my other older vehicle refers to them as TPS - Tire Pressure Sensor)
Last edited by strokeZ; 05-31-2011 at 12:23 PM.
2012 Jeep JKU Rubicon - 4-1/2" AEV lift w 35" Toyo's
03 BMW Z4 2.5i ESS Stage 2 Supercharged, Custom Suspension, Stebro Exhaust, Hamann Side Skirts
85 BMW 535is Lowering springs, bilstein sport shocks, extra attitude
Hey man... looks like the TPS is a cinch to replace on the 4.7L and doesnt require programming:
REMOVE
1) Remove air duct and tube at throttle body
2) Disconnect TPS electrical connector
3) Remove two TPS mounting bolts
4) Remove TPS from throttle body
INSTALL
The throttle shaft end of the throttle body slides into a socket in the TPS. The TPS must be installed so that it can be rotated a few degrees. If the sensor will not rotate, install the sensor with the throttle shaft on the other side of the socket tangs. The TPS will be under slight tension when rotated.
1) Install TPS and two retaining bolts
2) Tighten bolts to 7 N-m (60 in lbs) torque
3) Manually operate throttle control lever by hand to check for any binding of the TPS
4) Connect TPS electrical connector to TPS
5) Install air duct/air box to throttle body
Yeah, just did it (TPS) and plugs. The old plugs didn't look to bad though they were all gapped differently, some high/some low, that and at least two of the coil packs were just over finger tight. Also the intake to Thottle body hose clamp wasn't tight, and the screws to hold it down were gone. Anyway, did it up in about 1-1/2 hours and she started up and sounded better, no up/down idle. But we'll see what tomorrow brings.
Cleaned the thottle body a bit, though it didn't look bad. Time for a new air filter though.
Thanks for the help, also I just bought the 2006 manual on cd I'll have to see how well that works (only $30 shipped)
You'll have to let me know how the CD works... for $30 it might be worth getting just so I can do a quick search.
Then again, im learning my way around these manuals pretty quick.
Following the thread over on jf about the stalling issue and it looks to have been an issue since they were new. Suggestions are to check the wire harness for cracks and change out everything from EGR, PCV, TPS, Plugs, Coiil Packs, Crank position sensor and ignition switch. Some even had the PCM replaced and reflashed. Though others claim it was due to a leaking solenoid on the tranny. Just ordered the PCV and EGR since I'm at 60k anyway, I'll let y'all know how it goes, as it goes.
You have to be careful what you read on some of these forums. I've seen people recommend throwing parts at a vehicle for a condition that is unrelated to that part..... its clear that some people posting really don't have first hand knowledge of vehicle repair and are just guessing. I didn't read that thread but it sounds like that's happening there..... there comes a point where you need to do some in person diagnostics via probing sensors, reading computer data, running tests, etc.
Are you still having issues with yours?
So far so good. One step at a time. You start putting more than one part and you won't know what fixed it, let alone you spend for things you may not have to replace. Small things OK, but big, not good.
Most of the replies were from brand new (less than a few thousand miles) guys and dealerships were doing all the diagnosticsm that gets a bit costly. The dealer I took mine to suggested the TPS for $300 (bought it for $40) and then new plugs for $150 (I paid $16). Crank sensor is cheap to have on hand and EGR and PCV need to be replaced at the 60k anyway.
lol yeah man, you just made it sound like you were going to start ordering a bunch of parts or something. Seems like you know that's not a good idea.
If there's one thing I'm good at its spending money...... But I might as well plug that leak if I can, I just have to figure out how to make more and spend less.... Someday maybe.
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