Dan, it wouldn't be able to slide back and forth. Every Thule setup you can buy uses clamping force to retain the bars.... and I can far exceed the clamp force of every Thule mount I've used with the 2 3/8" bolts, so I'm positive there's enough there to hold it in place.
I forgot you were the engineer. Carry on!
LMAO that doesn't mean I'm perfect or that I know everything. As a matter of fact, being that I've worked both blue collar and white collar I can tell you that the best ideas I've heard for stuff like this usually come from the "shop" guys. And some of the dumbest ideas and designs I've ever heard have come from engineers who had a great GPA in college. So please, don't ever hesitate to question something I post.... there's a reason engineers work in "teams", the best solutions are seldom self derived.
Hence, this isn't a "how to" thread. I'm open to all suggestions / ideas / comments / etc because they will help improve the design.
I agree with doc about the squareness( is that a word lol) of the design but, if you look at the oem uprights...........they are not what I would call, aero.
****Uwharrie Aprroved****
2006 Commander Sport- 3.7L- 4X4*Inferno Red Crystal Pearl*Rocky Road 2.25" lift *"Limited" Color-Matched Rear Grab Handles*Mopar Hitch/Harness*4xGaurd Matrix w/Fogs*Rear Bumper Lights*Tinted Front Side Markers*MHT Fuel Hostage 17x8.5 +14ET*Nitto Terra Graplers 265/70/17*
--------->My Garage<------------------
RAGE ROOF RACK MEMBER #2
Originally Posted by AJeepZJ
Remember, these are some concepts and I had minimal time to model. The "squareness" is just a time saver for modeling.... I'm focusing in the attachment method right now. Once I hammer down the method I'm going with ill tweak the design for aerodynamics and aesthetics.
Ok so this is my absolute favorite method.... I'd just need to make some (what i'd call) adapter plates to convert the strangely angled roof rails to a nice flat surface. Then, with the brackets extending about 1" below Doc's rack I'll have about 1/2" roof clearance (that I could increase or decrease by making some new adapters which would be relatively cheap and easy to machine).
Just need to hear from Doc on his thoughts about this idea and to work on a quick quote to see if its a path I can afford to pursue. If it looks good, we'll work on some more of the details such as actual dimensions and locations of the mounts.
Edit: And if I do go with this method, I'll be using socket head cap screws. That will help resolve any issues with bolt head (and tool) clearance with the rear mounts and look cleaner from ground level. Also makes it a little harder for someone to randomly remove since its a large hex size. May even look into some tamper resistant bolts...
Last edited by Matt; 07-25-2011 at 02:39 PM.
Hmmmm... some tamper resistant button head would really fit the bill and look even cleaner from ground level.
Pretty sure I'll be going a route similar to this with my bolts regardless of which installation method I go with
Here's the direction im going with the load bar mounts.
I really like the double bolt clamp setup. Im working on some ideas to make the bolts hidden, but without killing myself with the machining. If only I could use the CNC's at work!!! Then i'd make a nice "top" section that would be curved and have the bolts countersunk completely out of view... (still might go for something like that, just have to figure out how it'll go together within my home-workshop machine capabilities and without taking a day per mount).
SIDE NOTE: Not bad work considering i did these 1 handed (got a passed out infant on my left shoulder).
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