That's what I would miss most if I sold my shop ... all the "drop" I have to play with
That's what I would miss most if I sold my shop ... all the "drop" I have to play with
Stone Soup Metal Works, L.L.C.
623.939.WELD
5037 N. 54th Ave - Suite #5 85301
Residential - Commercial - Automotive
See our work on Facebook
Matt this was a quote from the other thread that got my attention and why I was so many questions on about doing it to my rack now.
"Then I would just machine those mounts that I'm developing to clamp around those 1" diameter bars and completely eliminate the need for load bars. The rack can't get much more low pro than that...... "
Post 28 on the other thread.
My roof rack does not have a mesh or floor cover so that idea would work for me to bring the roof rack lower to the jeep roof & do away from load or cross bars & attach the roof rack to roof rails on the roof of the jeep
PJMJR508
(Happy Jeep)
I think you misunderstood what I meant.
By having Doc make my roof rack, i'm hoping he can have 3 of the crossbars used as the floor extend a few inches out on each side. These would effectively work as load bars and would be clamped directly in my mounts.
These images should help:
I like your latest renderings. I have a question tho....those extended bars that you are clamping to..... only the weld would be holding the weight of the rack and its contents. Wouldn't that be a weak spot for failure?
****Uwharrie Aprroved****
2006 Commander Sport- 3.7L- 4X4*Inferno Red Crystal Pearl*Rocky Road 2.25" lift *"Limited" Color-Matched Rear Grab Handles*Mopar Hitch/Harness*4xGaurd Matrix w/Fogs*Rear Bumper Lights*Tinted Front Side Markers*MHT Fuel Hostage 17x8.5 +14ET*Nitto Terra Graplers 265/70/17*
--------->My Garage<------------------
RAGE ROOF RACK MEMBER #2
Yes it would be. But with 6 mounts, 1" diameter steel, some skilled welding and a few reinforcement plates it shouldn't be an issue.
It's funny you mention that... because if Doc likes that and I decide to go that route I was planning on running an FEA to see what the stress would be at those joints with ~400lb (more than i'll ever load) on the rack to ensure the weld and whatever reinforcement we put there is adequate.
....or..... don't use a weld for the "support" at all. There's no rule saying that we couldn't put some bends in the lower perimeter bar. It would just shorten the overall length a bit. But we could have those "support" bars be one solid piece and the perimeter bar bend over it and then welded in place. .... maybe
I think with gussets and a little "beefiness" at the joint, you would be fine. Your bend idea would work but just adds to the complicity of the design
****Uwharrie Aprroved****
2006 Commander Sport- 3.7L- 4X4*Inferno Red Crystal Pearl*Rocky Road 2.25" lift *"Limited" Color-Matched Rear Grab Handles*Mopar Hitch/Harness*4xGaurd Matrix w/Fogs*Rear Bumper Lights*Tinted Front Side Markers*MHT Fuel Hostage 17x8.5 +14ET*Nitto Terra Graplers 265/70/17*
--------->My Garage<------------------
RAGE ROOF RACK MEMBER #2
Put 70lbs at the center of each crossbar (so almost 500lbs worth) and constrained the model by the very ends of the mounting bars to maximize the moment arm. We're talking about max stresses under 2ksi. So yeah, i wouldn't be concerned at all going with this method. Technically wouldn't even need any extra "beefiness"... but im a mass overkill kind of guy so I'd still like to see something there.
Edit:
But it would be best if those built in "load bars" are solid and the "perimeter" bar is cut and welded to each side of it. That way there would be more weld and it would be distributed around the sides with the lower stresses.
I would not want just a 4" long piece welded on to the exterior of the perimeter bar.
Last edited by Matt; 07-27-2011 at 06:29 PM.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)