Open Discussion - Front solid axle conversion

[Matt]

In the 2007 parts manual it's listed twice, once on the 4.7L engine wiring page and again on the 5.7L engine wiring page. Although they list the same part number on both sheets, it shows 3 connectors on the image for the 5.7L page and only 2 connectors on the 4.7L page.

In the 2006 parts manual its the same scenario with the P/N Gulf posted... except that the 5.7L engine had two other harness options.

I'm thinking in 2007 they made it a standard harness and some guys just have an extra connector hanging around. The new part number might include a cap.

[07JeepXK]

Ok. So either way ill be set cause he said he was just going to order both just in case. I'll be hacking up the harness anyway. I just need the plug with a few inches of wire.

[Holaday07 4.7]

So who is going to do it first?

I have a HP dana 30 from a JK sitting in my garage. The Dana 30 would be no problem with 33-36 inch tires. Plus the WJ dana 30 is our bolt pattern but comes with the less desireable CV axle shafts. my LP 30 on my TJ holds up fine with 35s and beadlocks. Just depends on your driving style. I see no reason a JK Rock Krawler jk long arm kit would not set up the suspension correctly since it comes with a weld in cross member for the front links. My big concern would be steering, unless some type of hydro assist could be used to take the stress off of the rack.

[07JeepXK]

The more I think about it, if I get a Hemi XK in the future I don't think I'm going to get it with QD II. It makes a solid axle conversion more difficult due to the computer programming and quite possibly not as capable as the front and rear setup I'm currently running in my Jeep.

[valpacer]

The more I think about it, if I get a Hemi XK in the future I don't think I'm going to get it with QD II. It makes a solid axle conversion more difficult due to the computer programming and quite possibly not as capable as the front and rear setup I'm currently running in my Jeep.

The opposite. QDII vehicles disable the traction control completely in Low range, all you have to do is fool the computer that the solenoid is still there (resistor). With a QTii vehicle it will still try to brake the wheels if it determines a slip (that can be side to side or front to rear) where the QDII vehicle wont. Ie if the rear spins and the front doesnt, it will actually brake the rear wheels and vice versa. I know the Tcase should be fully locked anywy, but with enough load they will slip.

[jjt250]

The opposite. QDII vehicles disable the traction control completely in Low range, all you have to do is fool the computer that the solenoid is still there (resistor). With a QTii vehicle it will still try to brake the wheels if it determines a slip (that can be side to side or front to rear) where the QDII vehicle wont. Ie if the rear spins and the front doesnt, it will actually brake the rear wheels and vice versa. I know the Tcase should be fully locked anywy, but with enough load they will slip.

Hmmm never even thought about that. Makes sense but if you're locked, it won't matter right since the computer things your wheels are just spinning at the same speeds?

[07JeepXK]

Hmmm never even thought about that. Makes sense but if you're locked, it won't matter right since the computer things your wheels are just spinning at the same speeds?

That's what I was thinking. Right now I'm locked front and rear so the tires on both side of each axle spin the same speed. Who knows. I love my current setup. Just got to really wheel it now and see how everything works out and what I break next lol

[p@55w0rd]

So who is going to do it first?

I have a HP dana 30 from a JK sitting in my garage. The Dana 30 would be no problem with 33-36 inch tires. Plus the WJ dana 30 is our bolt pattern but comes with the less desireable CV axle shafts. my LP 30 on my TJ holds up fine with 35s and beadlocks. Just depends on your driving style. I see no reason a JK Rock Krawler jk long arm kit would not set up the suspension correctly since it comes with a weld in cross member for the front links. My big concern would be steering, unless some type of hydro assist could be used to take the stress off of the rack.

Conversion kits to turn the CV style axle to a ujoint style are available. Also certain XJ axle shafts are a direct swap. Not sure such though.
EDIT:
Anyone have any thoughts of on tying in the rack?
I wonder if one could scavenge the d30 and d44 off of a WJ? The D44a in the back would need some reinforcement because it is made with aluminum but should work. And maybe a good selection because they are cheap and have the ABS setup with disc brakes.

[Holaday07 4.7]

Conversion kits to turn the CV style axle to a ujoint style are available. Also certain XJ axle shafts are a direct swap. Not sure such though.
EDIT:
Anyone have any thoughts of on tying in the rack?
I wonder if one could scavenge the d30 and d44 off of a WJ? The D44a in the back would need some reinforcement because it is made with aluminum but should work. And maybe a good selection because they are cheap and have the ABS setup with disc brakes.

I wonder if you could swap over everything from a JK? It seems plausable. Daveys Jeeps has them and then you could eliminate the rack all together. The JK steering boxes are holding up to 37s alright.

I would avoid that 44a at all cost. just my $.02

[07JeepXK]

Now that I'm locked front and rear this jeep won't be getting a solid axle or superlift. Dont need em