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Thread: Coming Up On 100K Miles - Service Help??

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Getting Dirty BonesWK's Avatar
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    Whelp im going to bump this thread.
    My rig is coming up on 100k here in the next few months. I have done the TC fluid change ealier this year, and diffs at about 89k. Plugs were at 80ish I think.

    So that leaves the PCV valve? Whats this thing look like? where is it at on the 4.7? Can I change it myself?

    Also, is there any gain from changing the oil from conventional to synthetic at 100k? I am lame and have the shop change my oil with the normal stuff, and have done so for the last 4 years. Should I switch to Synthetic?
    Ryan ---- 2006 WK 4.7 QDII <- Click for Garage
    2.25" RR Lift - Front Bilstiens - Rear OMEs - 32" Wildpeaks - Saguaro 4x Shackles - Tail Light Guards - AFE intake - Rola - Exhaust
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJeepZJ View Post
    Can't wait to see that big girl on those fat meats!

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    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BonesWK View Post
    Whelp im going to bump this thread.
    My rig is coming up on 100k here in the next few months. I have done the TC fluid change ealier this year, and diffs at about 89k. Plugs were at 80ish I think.

    So that leaves the PCV valve? Whats this thing look like? where is it at on the 4.7? Can I change it myself?

    Also, is there any gain from changing the oil from conventional to synthetic at 100k? I am lame and have the shop change my oil with the normal stuff, and have done so for the last 4 years. Should I switch to Synthetic?
    The PCV valve on the 4.7 L is easy to swap out and yes you can do it yourself. Its located on the drivers side of the engine bay towards the fire wall on the top of the motor. Not far from the last fuel injector and spark plug. Once you pick up the new PCV valve from the store you will see exactly what it looks like and have no problem locating it on the engine. It does take a huge wrench though to get the old one off and the new one on. I bought a wrench specifically for the PVC valve and cut it down with my angle grinder so I can get in there with it. Its sort of in a tight spot.
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

  3. #3
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    X2... pcv is easy to change. Recommend buying a crows foot instead of a giant wrench though; might save some "tool mod" time lol.

    Don't sweat it about the oil. Continue doing your routine maintenance and call it good. There's also nothing wrong with switching over if you wanted to start running a better oil and stretch out the interval.

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    Senior Member Getting Dirty
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    about 1500 shy of 90k.. ugh!

    time to start gathering the parts for the 90k service. when did you guys change your belts? on a need to basis?

    i know at 60k i had the PCV, all fluids drained and filled, front rotors, tranny filters, plugs, tranny lines- all changed. the EGR i had done at a dealer around 75k- which i think they got my ass and didnt do it cause the symptoms i had that indicated it could have been the EGR are still present.
    2007.5 WK Laredo
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    Senior Member Getting Dirty BonesWK's Avatar
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    I did my serpitine belt at about 91k. I think that is the only belt to change on our rigs. I changed it because it seemed like a good time to do it. no wear or anything was present.

    SUPER EASY to do. Look it up under the How-To section I posted some helpful maintenance vids for the 4.7. The belt was the easiest thing to do by far
    Ryan ---- 2006 WK 4.7 QDII <- Click for Garage
    2.25" RR Lift - Front Bilstiens - Rear OMEs - 32" Wildpeaks - Saguaro 4x Shackles - Tail Light Guards - AFE intake - Rola - Exhaust
    Twitter Facebook ---- Chive On
    Quote Originally Posted by AJeepZJ View Post
    Can't wait to see that big girl on those fat meats!

  6. #6
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    I would change the belt by 100k. Cheap and easy preventative maintenance. Ill probably do mine sooner since I don't put many miles on.

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    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    I replaced my oem belt at 105,000 and it still seemed like it was in good shape. I only did it so I didnt have to worry it going bad later on and getting stranded somewhere.
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

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