Fuel Tank Install #2: Modified for Flex

[Matt]

I won't repeat much of what Sal posted in his How To thread here: http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showt...k-Skid-Install

An important note:
1) (Edit: DO NOT PULL OUT THOSE CLIPS!!! See post #5) I've never broken so many of those clips before... and im careful with this type of stuff too. I'm going to check rockauto later to see if you can order the correct clips, if so, ill list the part numbers here. (I had to rig mine back together because my parts stores didnt have any of the size i needed in stock).

Ok let's get started....

First off, i had about a half tank of gas. I'm a busy guy so I had to seize the opportunity today. I did this solo and im not a big dude... i'm 5'10 and 170 lbs soaking wet. There's 2 very important tools I used that make the job much easier... first is my motorcycle lift and the second is a makeshift "dowel" to lift the tank of out the old skid.

Here's my jack setup:



And since there aren't any lifting points to get the tank out of the old skid, i used 2 long screwdrivers and wrapped them with shop towels and electrical tank. This allowed me to pry the tank upwards without risking damage to the plastic. Once up, i could grip it with my hands to lift it out:

[Matt]

OK now for the cool part...

I've read about people modifying the gas tank to eliminate interference with the upper radius arm for the rear axle.

I disconnected the sway bar link and shock and marked the area where there was interference. NOTE: Arm hits gas tank when the eye-to-eye length of the shock is 25.5". <--- That's very important because it basically tells you that if you get shocks longer than 25.5" of flex, you're limited by the gas tank.

Here's a picture with the sway bar and stock length shocks connected... note the clearance:



Here's a picture with the sway bar and shock disconnected and the arm hitting the tank:

[Matt]

To continue on.... the whole point of this is to modify the new gas tank skid before installing it...

Here's how I cut it:

Marked the old skid using a sharpie while it was still installed and just redrew the "cut out area" on the new tank.





I then smoothed out the edges and loaded it up with a bunch of coats of rust preventing enamel (you'll notice the drip marks in future pics).

Once the tank was installed, I rechecked for clearance.

Here's the bread and butter:
With the sway bar disconnected, the eye-to-eye length of the shock is 26.5". NOTE, there is no interference with the gas tank... however the coil spring is loose at this length!! And the brake line is in good shape. What does this mean? This means that you either want shocks (or limiting straps) that are 26.5" long to MAXIMIZE offroad flex. No brake line mod is required. Any longer and you'll risk the spring coming loose (for the RC kit anyways)

And now for the pictures:

[LWM]

Great job, now I have to take my tank out again and do this!

[Matt]

Guys.... i cant friggin believe i did this!!!!!

I'm cleaning up getting ready to go to a buddy's for a few beers. Being agitated that I broke all of those clips, i'm trying to think of what i did wrong... i've NEVER had that much trouble with gas lines before. Granted, it's been a few years since i've worked in the shop...

Then it dawned on me. Those are QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS and you DONT REMOVE THE CLIPS!!!!! The clips aren't meant to be removed, that's why they're breaking!!

Want to add salt to the wounds? I have the proper tools to disconnect them!!!!

S-O-a-B.

So here's what you do...

1) Push lines "into" each other. You'll notice that you can push/pull and the lines will move a bit, you need them compressed together.
2) Put proper sized fuel line tool over the rail and PUSH it into the fitting.
3) With the tool pushed in, pull the lines apart.

Whaaaaaaaala, DONE. To reconnect you just push them together.

Fuel line tools are cheap and sold at all autoparts stores:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Co.../dp/B0002SRCK6







I am beyond pissed that i made this mistake

Going to have a few beers now. Cheers

[Chapman89]

This is a great addition to Sal's how to thread. It looks like I'll be trimming mine before installing it.

[Matt]

Great job, now I have to take my tank out again and do this!

Thanks man.

Hey, would you mind looking up those fuel line part numbers in your service manual? I want to see how much they go for.... might just order a new set. If there's an IPB diagram i can point them out for you.

[LWM]

Thanks man.

Hey, would you mind looking up those fuel line part numbers in your service manual? I want to see how much they go for.... might just order a new set. If there's an IPB diagram i can point them out for you.

No problem, all I have to do is find where I put the manual.

[Sal-XK]

Nice How to Matt a little late for me hahahah. LMAO you had the tools bro thats funny I guess you were in a hurry LOL The part I list in my thread is a direct replacement I could not find a difference holding the one off my jeep and those side by side they were exact. I won't be dropping my tank to do that mod I'll just get in there with the dremel and take my time covering the tank and stuff with a wet towel and good ventilation should to the trick I hope or I'll be starting from scratch with a new Jeep hahah

[Matt]

Lol yeah man I can't believe I did that. The ironic part is that it takes less time to disconnect them properly than it does to pry the clips out. I got a set of the Ford 3/8 & 5/16 clips too and they didn't work.... but I'm not too worried since the ones I broke were just the evap lines and I got them back together pretty good. If I get an evap system DTC ill know what to replace.